![]() The same goes for the main switch - try switch cleaner first but it might still be intermittent, in which case, replace it. You'll need some way of desoldering them. You can try switch cleaner, or you could just replace them with new ones - they're not expensive. The surface of the metal may have corroded, stopping them making a good contact. Sliders are open to dust falling in, so maybe try a blast of air duster first (compressed gas in a tin, for cleaning keyboards etc).Īlso check the jack sockets. There are more involved ways of doing it but sometimes just moving the knob or slider from one extreme to the other, applying a bit of light pressure, is good enough. You could replace them, but you might be able to clean the tracks up a bit. Both develop spots on their tracks that don't conduct properly - causing the crackling and intermittent behaviour of the volume and other controls on old radios. Next, look at the potentiometers (sliders) and presets. Tantalum and ceramic capacitors are probably still okay, and the design appears to use a lot of tantalum ones. 100uF) and at least the same voltage rating. I'd start by replacing those, with the same values (e.g. There may be others - I've only looked at it briefly. That will be any electrolytic - can shaped. C32, on the schematic I've just looked at is 100uF/35V (capacity and voltage rating), shown close to a bridge rectifier (drawn as four diodes). In mains AC powered things, there's usually some smoothing the output of the rectifier. In any older equipment, there's a good chance any electrolytic capacitors in it will have failed, or at least changed their values. ![]() Hi Andrew - I only just saw that question. Thanks for reading, I hope I made myself sufficiently clear, I hope somebody's been there before and can steer me right.ĭid you end up fixing the voltage issue in the Micro Synth? I know it's been forever ago but I also have a vintage micro synth with an AC cord and it's partially working just as you have described. The other way is to cut all three traces. This seems like it would work, but would the normal slider not always be in parallel with the exp pedal, lowering the resistance? Wouldn't this mess with the sweep and/or current draw? Wire both ends of the sliderpot to the ring and sleeve and both ends of the cut trace to the tip and the tip-switch, so that they connect when nothing is plugged in. Am I correct in assuming that to do this one you have to cut the trace to the wiper of the slider you want to 'express'? Then use a switching stereo jack (tip,ring,sleeve). To me this seems okay, but then I have no electronics background except for tinkering.Īnd lastly: the expression jack. For values maybe a 50k pot and a 25k ground reference. the 13k for the lower octave)?Ĭan I use the output of the buffered-bypass for a wet/dry control? Feeding the buffer-output to one end of a pot, then the effect-output to the other end, taking the mixed output from the wiper and referencing to ground. When true bypassing is the volume pretty matched between on/off? And if I want to give some voices (mainly both octaves) more volume range, do I just lower the mixing resistor (e.g. I've been trying to find answers to the following questions, but so far I'm only finding people asking the same thing and links to pictures that are no longer there. So far, so good.īut then I'd also like to add a dry/wet control and a exp-jack for the stop control. I'll make it switchable between bass and guitar, true-bypass it, add a statusLED. I like it a lot but plan on making it as useful to me as possible. ![]() I'm currently on a trip through the states and picked up a Microsynth, one of the large-box reissues. So, thanks a lot! Unfortunately my first post is one presenting questions instead of contributions. I've been lurking here for years and have built some wonderful pedals thanks to all of you.
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